"Summer fruits almost invariably mean desserts, and red wine with dessert hardly ever drums up much enthusiasm.

But we should not forget that we can make some excellent summer fruit dishes that give Saint-Emilions every opportunity of deploying all their charm. And, even with desserts, if you choose wisely, you can find some remarkable combinations. But in every case, the age of the wine will determine the choice. Let me give you some examples to show what I mean. For instance, game terrines, such as wild boar or venison, served with cranberries, need a relatively young Saint-Emilion – such as the 92 or 93 – which have retained strong aromas of red and black berry fruits. On the other hand, duck with black cherries needs the support of an older Saint-Emilion, in which some of the ripe, tender tannins have begun to take on a kirsch-like flavour, that will enhance the sweet-and-sour effect of the whole. In between come pheasants and partridges cooked with red peaches (that are best accompanied with red cabbage and/or dried figs) and served with a lovely, rich sauce. They go extremely well with a Saint-Emilion from the slopes, one that is in possession of all its faculties, so to speak (such as a 1989), because they are complemented by the body, the power and the wonderful blackberry and blackcurrant bouquet."

Desserts are for the young: a blueberry tart will only release its full flavours with a cheeky young wine with very little wood aromas of the darker berries hold sway. Less capricious, flambéed black cherries adore the company of wines with tender tannins and intensely expressive bouquets., like a Saint-Emilion 1985. It is really only strawberries (and wild strawberries) that appreciate the older wines: with little or no sugar, they prefer a mature, even a very old, wine whose raspberry and strawberry aromas echo their own, wines with more charm than lasting flavour and more tannins than bouquet.

"Saint-Emilions go admirably well with many Chinese dishes: their elegance and personality let the oriental flavours come through without neutralizing them.

Without a doubt, "Five-Scented Duck" with Saint-Emilion wine forms an excellent basis for discussion. Saint-Emilion wines have all the elegance provided by the sandier soils; if we make an effort to select a wine that is not too full bodied and that has grown older and wiser, it should form an enjoyable alliance with the duck.

There are all sorts of other combinations, too, thanks to the subtle distinctions of flavour and texture in Chinese food: the wine can even express itself with spicy dishes, provided they are fairly mild. The important thing is not to overpower the wine. So even the most strongly flavoured dishes – as long as they are not too sharp – should bring out the best in a full-bodied Saint-Emilion.

Oriental cuisine opens up a whole new world of experimentation. But the main thing is that the dishes have to suit the wine, rather than the other way round. Success when mixing styles lies in each side making concessions to the other. And in making the effort to get closer together, that is how we grow."